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🧪 An honest comparison — a gentle 10% cica serum, or a true 20%
An Honest Comparison

Helloskin vs ANUA

ANUA's Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron serum is a beautiful, gentle K-beauty formula — a true 10% azelaic wrapped in a full centella (cica) complex, ceramide, hyaluronic acid and beta-glucan. For calming and barrier repair it's genuinely lovely. But it's 10% (half our dose), and its focus is soothing, not strength. We run a true 20% with 10% Niacinamide. Here's the breakdown — no spin, just chemistry.

Updated
Sept 2026
Reviewed by
Formulation Team
Read
6 min
Azelaic Acid
20%
True 20% vs 10%
Niacinamide
10%
10% vs trace
Salicylic (BHA)
Yes
Real SA vs betaine salicylate
Made In
🇦🇺
Australia
"

One of the gentlest, most soothing azelaic serums going — but it's built for comfort at 10%, not strength.

— ANUA, Honest Verdict
Australian-Made · No Script
True Azelaic · 10% Niacinamide · $39.99
Helloskin Azelaic Acid 20% Serum
20%
true azelaic
A true 20% azelaic acid serum with 10% Niacinamide and a salicylic-acid (BHA) assist, antioxidant-protected with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E, in a light, dissolved serum base. Prescription-strength azelaic, no script. $39.99 / 30ml.
10% Azelaic · +Cica +Ceramide · ~$29.50
ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Serum
10%
azelaic + cica
A true 10% azelaic in a gorgeous soothing base — full centella complex, ceramide NP, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, panthenol and licorice. Genuinely calming and barrier-supportive. But it's half the azelaic, tuned for comfort over strength.
At A Glance

The two formulas, side by side.

Every spec that matters — including the rows where ANUA's soothing, barrier-repair focus genuinely wins.

Spec
Helloskin
ANUA
Azelaic Acid
Helloskin
20%true
ANUA
10%true
Niacinamide
Helloskin
10%
ANUA
Yes (low on list)
Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Helloskin
Yes
ANUA
Betaine Salicylate (gentler)
Cica / Centella
Helloskin
Not included
ANUA
Full complex + madecassoside
Ceramide / Barrier
Helloskin
Not included
ANUA
Ceramide NP
Antioxidants
Helloskin
Ferulic + Vitamin E
ANUA
Green tea, licorice
Fragrance-Free
Helloskin
No — contains Parfum
ANUA
Yes
Made In
Helloskin
🇦🇺 Australia
ANUA
Korea
Price
Helloskin
$39.9930ml
ANUA
~$29.5030ml
The Science

Soothing at 10%, or strength at 20%?

ANUA optimised for calm: a true 10% azelaic buried in one of the most complete soothing-and-barrier rosters in K-beauty — centella, ceramide, beta-glucan, panthenol. It's a wonderful serum for reactive, red skin. Our brief was different: a true 20% for maximum azelaic effect, with niacinamide.

ANUA
10%

wrapped in cica + ceramide

A true 10% azelaic surrounded by a full centella complex, ceramide NP, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan and panthenol. One of the gentlest, most barrier-supportive azelaics available — but half the dose, and soothing-led.

Helloskin
20%

strength-led

A true 20% azelaic with 10% Niacinamide, a real salicylic-acid assist and antioxidant protection — double the azelaic, tuned for results on tone, texture and blemishes.

Credit where it's due: for sensitive, compromised or rosacea-prone skin, ANUA's cica-and-ceramide base is genuinely excellent, and it's cheaper and fragrance-free. We trade that cushioning for double the azelaic and a 10% niacinamide.

The Math

What each label delivers.

Both are true azelaic. Dose and focus differ.

Item
Helloskin
ANUA
Azelaic acid
Helloskin20% (true)
ANUA10% (true)
Niacinamide
Helloskin10%
ANUALow (unquantified)
Salicylic (BHA)
HelloskinSalicylic Acid
ANUABetaine Salicylate
Cica + Ceramide
Helloskin—
ANUAFull complex
Price
Helloskin$39.99
ANUA~$29.50

ANUA wins soothing, barrier repair and price; we win azelaic dose, niacinamide and a real BHA. Double the azelaic vs the gentlest cica base — different jobs, honestly.

The Benchmark

Prescription-strength azelaic, without the prescription.

Dermatologists prescribe azelaic acid at 15–20% (Skinoren is 20%, Finacea 15%). Most over-the-counter serums stop at 10% — half. We run a full, true 20%, on the shelf, no script.

Strength
20%

True azelaic acid — the prescription ceiling

The same 20% concentration a dermatologist prescribes as Skinoren, in a cosmetic serum you can just buy — paired with 10% Niacinamide and a salicylic-acid (BHA) assist.

Form
0grit

Dissolved, not suspended or "derivative"

Real azelaic acid, carried in a light Undecane/Tridecane serum base that spreads clean — not a gritty silicone suspension, and not a milder Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate stand-in.

Azelaic acid is dose-dependent and a higher percentage is stronger — it can also be more active on sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, so patch-test and build up slowly. Not medical advice; azelaic acid at these levels is a cosmetic ingredient here, not a substitute for prescribed treatment.

Full Scorecard

All 15 categories. Scored fairly.

Helloskin wins 8, ties 3, cedes 4. ANUA genuinely wins on cica soothing, ceramide barrier repair, gentleness and price — a beautiful sensitive-skin serum. We win on azelaic dose and actives.

Category
Helloskin
ANUA
Why
Azelaic Strength
HS
10
ANUA
5
HS 20% vs 10%
Niacinamide / Tone
HS
9
ANUA
5
HS 10% vs trace
Salicylic (BHA)
HS
8.5
ANUA
6
HS real SA vs betaine salicylate
Antioxidant Protection
HS
8.5
ANUA
7.5
HS Ferulic + E
Soothing / Cica
HS
6.5
ANUA
9.5
ANUA full centella complex
Barrier / Ceramide
HS
5.5
ANUA
9
ANUA Ceramide NP
Gentleness / Sensitive
HS
6.5
ANUA
9
ANUA gentler, fragrance-free
Hydration System
HS
8.5
ANUA
8.5
Tie both strongly hydrating
Cosmetic Elegance
HS
8.5
ANUA
8.5
Tie both elegant serums
Multi-Benefit Breadth
HS
9
ANUA
8
HS strength + niac + BHA + antiox
Dosing Transparency
HS
9
ANUA
7
HS actives % declared
Provenance
HS
9
ANUA
7
HS Australian in-house
Azelaic Results Power
HS
9
ANUA
6
HS 20% works harder on tone/blemish
Size Clarity
HS
9
ANUA
9
Tie both 30ml
Value per Dollar
HS
8
ANUA
8.5
ANUA ~$29.50 vs $39.99
Helloskin wins 8 of 15
ANUA is one of the gentlest, most barrier-supportive azelaic serums made — cica, ceramide, gentle, fragrance-free, cheaper. Four genuine wins for sensitive skin. But it's 10% azelaic tuned for comfort; we deliver a true 20% with 10% niacinamide and a real BHA.
Full Transparency

Every ingredient. Both labels, side by side.

ANUA's list is a soothing masterclass: 10% azelaic (2nd), then a full centella complex, ceramide NP, beta-glucan, aloe and hyaluronic acid. Niacinamide is present but low. Half our azelaic, far more cica.

Helloskin
18functional ingredients
Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Niacinamide, Undecane, Tridecane, Propanediol, Polyacrylamide and C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7, Polyglycerin-6, Betaine, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ferulic Acid, Tocopherol, Citrus Reticulata Rosso, Parfum
ANUA
38true 10% azelaic + full cica base
Water, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Betaine Salicylate, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract/Leaf/Root, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Squalane, Zinc PCA, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP
Being Fair

What ANUA gets right.

Genuinely a lot. ANUA's serum is a true 10% azelaic in one of the most complete soothing bases in K-beauty — a full centella complex (madecassoside, asiaticoside), ceramide NP for the barrier, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, aloe and panthenol — gentle, fragrance-free, and cheaper at around $29.50. For sensitive, red, compromised or rosacea-prone skin, it's a beautiful choice, arguably kinder than ours.

Where we pull ahead is azelaic itself. Theirs is 10%; ours is a true 20% — double — with 10% Niacinamide (theirs is a trace), a real salicylic acid rather than the gentler betaine salicylate, and Ferulic Acid + Vitamin E. ANUA is the gentler, more barrier-focused serum; we're the stronger, results-led one. The honest trade-offs: they're cheaper, fragrance-free and far more soothing.

Common Questions

What people actually ask.

Is ANUA real azelaic acid?
Yes — unlike some rivals, ANUA uses true azelaic acid (2nd on the list), at 10%. It's genuine, just half our 20% dose, and wrapped in a soothing cica base rather than tuned for strength.
I have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin — which is better?
ANUA, most likely. Its 10% dose, full centella-and-ceramide base and fragrance-free formula make it one of the gentlest azelaics available. Our 20% is stronger and contains fragrance, so reactive skin should patch-test and build up — or start gentler like ANUA.
Does ANUA have niacinamide like Helloskin?
It contains niacinamide, but low on the list (a supporting level), where ours is a headline 10%. For tone and oil-control from niacinamide specifically, ours is far stronger; for soothing, ANUA's base is richer.
Which should I choose?
Sensitive, red or barrier-compromised skin wanting gentle azelaic? ANUA at ~$29.50 is lovely. Want the strongest true azelaic with a real 10% niacinamide? Helloskin's 20% at $39.99.
Ready When You Are

Double the azelaic, built for results.

A true 20% azelaic with 10% Niacinamide and a salicylic-acid assist — twice the dose of the gentle 10% cica serums. Australian-made. $39.99.

Shop Azelaic 20% Serum — $39.99→
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Helloskin Azelaic Acid 20% Serum
$39.99 · true 20% azelaic
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